Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Dating articles

I thought this was interesting. I had more to say about it when I read it a while back, but can't remember without reading it again, which I don't have time to do right at this moment. However, it was interesting.

The Demise of Dating: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/12/13/opinion/13blow.html?em

Just for fun, I'm also posting the link to Elder Dallin H. Oaks' CES Fireside, "The Dedication of a Lifetime," the second half of which was oriented towards the topic of dating.

http://lds.org/library/display/0,4945,538-1-3100-1,00.html

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Signs of the Times

As a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, I believe our leaders are inspired. I believe they see dangers before they are imminent, and I believe they have answers that will help us navigate the straits of our times.

In light of the recent political struggles, one of which being Prop 8, and of many battles that I expect will come, I thought that this message written by Neal A. Maxwell in 1979 (29 years ago) was very interesting and enlightening. Elder Maxwell was at the time a member of the Presidency of the First Quorum of the Seventy, and later became an Apostle of the Church. The message strengthens my testimony of the divine inspiration which they receive, and it is still quite relevant to us today. Following are excerpts, and the link to the message in full is found at the bottom:
____________________________________________________________

Elder Neal A. Maxwell
Make no mistake about it, brothers and sisters, in the months and years ahead, events are likely to require each member to decide whether or not he will follow the First Presidency. Members will find it more difficult to halt longer between two opinions. (See 1 Kgs. 18:21.)

President Marion G. Romney said, many years ago, that he had “never hesitated to follow the counsel of the Authorities of the Church even though it crossed my social, professional or political life” (in Conference Report, Apr. 1941, p. 123). This is a hard doctrine, but it is a particularly vital doctrine in a society which is becoming more wicked. In short, brothers and sisters, not being ashamed of the gospel of Jesus Christ includes not being ashamed of the prophets of Jesus Christ!

We are now entering a time of incredible ironies. Let us cite but one of these ironies which is yet in its subtle stages: We will see a maximum, if indirect, effort made to establish irreligion as the state religion. It is actually a new form of paganism which uses the carefully preserved and cultivated freedoms of western civilization to shrink freedom, even as it rejects the value essence of our rich Judeo-Christian heritage.

M. J. Sobran wrote recently:

“The Framers of the Constitution … forbade the Congress to make any law ‘respecting’ the establishment of religion, thus leaving the states free to do so (as several of them did); and they explicitly forbade the Congress to abridge ‘the free exercise’ of religion, thus giving actual religious observance a rhetorical emphasis that fully accords with the special concern we know they had for religion. It takes a special ingenuity to wring out of this a governmental indifference to religion, let alone an aggressive secularism. Yet there are those who insist that the First Amendment actually proscribes governmental partiality not only to any single religion, but to religion as such; so that tax exemption for churches is now thought to be unconstitutional. It is startling to consider that a clause clearly protecting religion can be construed as requiring that it be denied a status routinely granted to educational and charitable enterprises, which have no overt constitutional protection. Far from equalizing unbelief, secularism has succeeded in virtually establishing it. …

“What the secularists are increasingly demanding, in their disingenuous way, is that religious people, when they act politically, act only on secularist grounds. They are trying to equate acting on religion with establishing religion. And—I repeat—the consequence of such logic is really to establish secularism. It is in fact, to force the religious to internalize the major premise of secularism: that religion has no proper bearing on public affairs.” (Human Life Review, Summer 1978, pp. 51–52, 60–61.)

Brothers and sisters, irreligion as the state religion would be the worst of all combinations. Its orthodoxy would be insistent and its inquisitors inevitable. Its paid ministry would be numerous beyond belief. Its Caesars would be insufferably condescending. Its majorities—when faced with clear alternatives—will make the Barabbas choice, as did a mob centuries ago when Pilate confronted them with the need to decide.

Your discipleship may see the time when such religious convictions are discounted. M. J. Sobran also said, “A religious conviction is now a second-class conviction, expected to step deferentially to the back of the secular bus, and not to get uppity about it” (Human Life Review, Summer 1978, pp. 58–59).

This new irreligious imperialism seeks to disallow certain opinions simply because those opinions grow out of religious convictions. Resistance to abortion will be seen as primitive. Concern over the institution of the family will be viewed as untrendy and unenlightened.

In its mildest form, irreligion will merely be condescending toward those who hold to traditional Judeo-Christian values. In its more harsh forms, as is always the case with those whose dogmatism is blinding, the secular church will do what it can to reduce the influence of those who still worry over standards such as those in the Ten Commandments. It is always such an easy step from dogmatism to unfair play—especially so when the dogmatists believe themselves to be dealing with primitive people who do not know what is best for them—the secular bureaucrats’ burden, you see.
...
If people, however, are not permitted to advocate, to assert, and to bring to bear, in every legitimate way, the opinions and views they hold which grow out of their religious convictions, what manner of men and women would we be?

Our founding fathers did not wish to have a state church established nor to have a particular religion favored by government. They wanted religion to be free to make its own way. But neither did they intend to have irreligion made into a favored state church.

Notice the terrible irony if this trend were to continue. When the secular church goes after its heretics, where are the sanctuaries? To what landfalls and Plymouth Rocks can future pilgrims go?
...
If the challenge of the secular church becomes very real, let us, as in all other relationships, be principled but pleasant. Let us be perceptive without being pompous. Let us have integrity and not write checks with our tongues which our conduct cannot cash.

Before the ultimate victory of the forces of righteousness, some skirmishes will be lost. Even in these, however, let us leave a record so that the choices are clear, letting others do as they will in the face of prophetic counsel.

There will also be times, happily, when a minor defeat seems probable, but others will step forward, having been rallied to rightness by what we do. We will know the joy, on occasion, of having awakened a slumbering majority of the decent people of all races and creeds which was, till then, unconscious of itself.

Jesus said that when the fig trees put forth their leaves, “summer is nigh” (Matt. 24:32). Thus warned that summer is upon us, let us not then complain of the heat!
...
So should we regard the dispensation of the fulness of time—even when we face stern challenges and circumstances. “These are great days”! Our hearts need not fail us. We can be equal to our challenges, including the aforementioned challenge of the secular church!

http://lds.org/ldsorg/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=2354fccf2b7db010VgnVCM1000004d82620aRCRD&locale=0&sourceId=1846d0640b96b010VgnVCM1000004d82620a____&hideNav=1
_____________________________________________________

This message seemed very pertinent to me. I couldn't help but feel that it was from an inspired man. Some may not like part of it, some may disagree very much. We are all certainly entitled to our opinions. Here, I share that I will align mine with men that I strongly believe are inspired by a Creator who I know to be a living, loving, personal God. We live in challenging times - I don't know how anybody could ever try to face them without the help of such a benevolent Being.

I pray God's blessings on all of you, my friends.

Sunday, August 3, 2008

My last week in Arequipa

Last Sunday night Chelsea and I boarded a bus and came back to Arequipa, and then spent two days working hard on a report for FONDESURCO. On Wednesday, I spent a good portion of the day translating the report for PRISMA, the first organization that we worked for. Cam Nelson wrote it in English, and I translated it into Spanish. After we finished with that, we finally let off some steam and spent some hours just relaxing. That is, if you can call trying to figure out how to buy tickets for everything in Cusco relaxing!

The major battle this week was obtaining train tickets from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes, the small city in the valley below Machu Picchu, where all the tourists arrive and stay. There's only one train company, PeruRail. And so I spent some time looking at the times and prices online, and decided which days I wanted to go and return. So on Friday (9 days ago), click, click, click, enter personal information and #'s, click, click...denied. I'm not super surprised, my credit card wasn't accepted before when I tried to purchase bus tickets with a Peruvian bus company. So the two girls of our group each tried their credit and debit cards, and nothing. Then Carly e-mailed her dad, who was at the time still in the US, and he tried several cards to no avail. (I guess our American credit cards just aren't good enough for them?) So I did what any sensible person would do, and called customer service.

"Hello," I say, "I'm having trouble reserving and paying for my train tickets online, it won't accept my credit card."

"Oh, ok, let me help you with that."

"Thanks. I would like to reserve my tickets for two weeks from now, (etc., etc.)."

"I'm sorry sir, we don't make reservations on the phone."

"...uh..."

"The only way to make reservations without buying your tickets online is by sending us an e-mail," she says.

"Ok, I guess I'll do that."

So I did. On Friday, 9 days ago. And since it is the high tourist season, (we sure planned that well...not. Next time you spend three months in Peru, don't choose to do your tourism in the same month that all the European tourists, as well as plenty of Americans, do theirs!) I decided to keep trying to reserve tickets another way in the meantime. Carly's dad arrived last weekend in Lima, and they went to the PeruRail office in Lima to try and reserve tickets. It turns out that the office in Lima is purely for freight and cargo, nothing for tourists. Chelsea and I, meanwhile, tried to visit the PeruRail office here in Arequipa. Yeah, you guessed it, it's only freight there as well. So where can you reserve tickets? Only in Cusco, of course! I mean, why on earth would tourists want to reserve their tickets any longer than a day or two before their journey, especially during high tourist season? Agh. So on Thursday, I called a number that the office here in Arequipa gave me to make reservations. Which happened to be the same number I called before.

"No, I'm sorry sir, we don't make reservations on the phone. You must send us an e-mail."

"I sent you an e-mail last Friday and you haven't responded. I'm worried that by the time you make me a reservation, there won't be any tickets available."

"The employee that reads the e-mails and makes the reservations only comes in every other day. Please wait until tomorrow, and if you still haven't received an e-mail, call us back."

"Uh, ok..." And then I'm thinking, "the only train company that services the, arguably, most well-known tourist site in all of South America only has one employee that receives the e-mails and makes reservations, even during the peak tourist season? I don't get it."

Well, later that afternoon, I finally got a confirmation e-mail. Yay! However, Chelsea did not, and I sent our requests in the same e-mail. That one is still a work in progress. Sometimes I just don't get the Peruvian systems...but whaddaya do?

The rest of the week we worked on this and that, and relaxed. On Friday, we received some great news from our supervisor at Freedom from Hunger that we should take whatever money we had left from the advances, which money we could only use for hotels and travel that had to do with the work, and apply the rest of it to personal expenses, as long as we recorded what we spent it on so that they knew where the expenses went. That was some fantastic news. After applying it to costs I had personally incurred, it turns out that I haven't had to pay for any hotels, any taxis or buses, or any of the internet booth costs from when I arrived in Peru to when I leave for Cusco to spend a week touring! That was a great blessing.

And on Saturday, Chelsea and I had another great blessing. We went out to lunch with one of the FONDESURCO workers that we got to know during our work, named David Álvarez. Chelsea had had a discussion or two about the Church with him before, and he came to church with us two weeks ago. While we ate lunch, we talked about several things, but we also talked about LDS beliefs for quite some time, probably an hour and a half. He is interested and curious, although not ready to think about converting. But he likes the ideas of eternal families, and he wants to come to church every week. A fortunate coincidence is that one of the members of the ward knew him back in high school, and we hope that that will provide some fellowship for him. He was going to come to church today, but in the end couldn't because of a family commitment. But it was an enjoyable discussion, and we've passed his information onto the member he knows, as well as the missionaries. We'll try to stay in contact with him.

Today we went to church and received several warm goodbyes from the members, as we told them that it was our last Sunday here in Arequipa. We've been fortunate enough to attend the same ward for 7 of the last 9 weeks. Chelsea and I watched a movie to help the afternoon pass a little more quickly, and then I repacked all of my things, and left at 9:45 pm to catch my bus to Cusco at 20:30 horas. You know...10:30 pm. Er...wait. You'd think that after thinking in 24 hour time since I've been in Peru, I would've caught that. However, I didn't - I looked at the time on the ticket earlier this week, thought it was 10:30 pm, and never looked again. So, lesson learned! Check your ticket and your military time calculations twice! I had to buy a whole new ticket, because the first was missed and wasted. They wouldn't apply any of the money I had already spent to the new ticket. Oh well...at least they had one more ticket for tomorrow. It was really fortunate for me.

So now I'm back at the Hostal Ginza, where we've been every weekend for the past 7 weeks or so, and during the weekdays of two weeks as well. It's kind of like our pseudo-home, as they've become our friends here, and even gave us fridge space and kitchen privileges long ago. And tonight I'll sleep here for the last time...for the second time.

I'm looking forward to an interesting week in Cusco and Machu Picchu, and will, of course, send along a long-winded report on my experience afterwards!

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Laughing

While reading my sister-in-law's blog, I was highly amused at some of the experiences that she wrote, and laughed pretty hard. As I commented on her blog, I started to say that it was the first good, hard laugh that I had had in a while, but realized that I actually had a pretty good laugh last Saturday as well, while watching Ice Age 2. So I thought that I'd write a post asking people to leave a comment with the last three times that they laughed hard, had a good belly laugh. I think it could serve as a good reminder to us all that we need to laugh often.

Mine:
1. Today while reading about the adventures of my sister-in-law (usually having to do with her crazy, cute children) on her blog. I love my niece and nephew.
2. Last Saturday while watching Ice Age 2, in particular the scene when the sloth gets kidnapped by other colorful, mini sloths, and they imitate his every move before trying to sacrifice him. (By the way, what the heck does this have to do with the storyline? Oh well, it's my favorite part.)
3. Earlier that week when playing pranks on my fellow students, or while listening to my friend Cam Nelson try to speak to Delta representatives through a Skype phone connection in which they kept sending him to new representatives.

Ready, go.

A trip down memory lane...

I saw this on my sister-in-law's blog and was thus inclined to write my own post about it. I have high hopes for good memories and/or good laughs.

1. As a comment on my blog, leave a memory that you and I had together. It doesn't matter if you know me a little or a lot, anything you remember.

2. Next, re-post these instructions on your blog and see how many people leave a memory about you. It's actually pretty funny to see the responses.

3. Remember, if you can't say something nice, don't say nothin' at all ☺

4. Consider this a Tag: if you've read it, you have to do it!

Food bag

I have one. And in-between the candy that I put in my food bag, I also eat meals. (Actually, I've really been trying to cut down my candy intake, but anyone who knows me also knows that I enjoy some sugar here and there.) Inspired by a comment that my cousin left on my blog earlier this month, I thought I'd leave some of my opinions on Peruvian food before I leave here and forget all about it. I wish I'd taken photos of the meals that I'll describe...maybe I'll find some and put 'em in later. And note that the exchange rate that we've had during our 3-month stay has varied from S/.2.68 to S/.2.95, being on average 2.8 Nuevo Soles per dollar. We'll start with some of the most traditional dishes.

Lomo saltado: This was definitely my favorite dish soon after we arrived to Peru. It is a plate of strips of beef, fried potatoes, onion, tomato, green onions, and probably some other stuff that I can't think of at the moment. It's a bit greasy, but it's pretty good, especially with some salsa de ají (hot sauce). Sometimes they even include a portion of white rice. I found it as cheap as $2, but in nicer restaurants it ran from $4-8.

Ají de gallina: A thick yellow sauce made from...well, I don't know, but I assume there's some ají (hot pepper) in there, the sauce is cooked with shreds of chicken. A good portion of this sauce is served with mashed potatoes or rice, or both. It's pretty good! We haven't had it for a while, come to think of it... Again, we found some cheaper plates for $2 or $3, but as expensive as $8.

Pollo a la brasa: Some good rotisserie chicken! A normal-sized portion is a 1/4 de pollo (a leg or wing with part of the breast), served with fatty french fries and sometimes a small salad of lettuce, tomato, and cucumber. We found some for less than $1.50, but if you're willing to spend $3 to $3.50, it's worth it.

Pollo con arroz: I'm cheating; they have so many ways of cooking chicken and different sauces that they cook it in or add to it that this is far from one plate. But they always add rice, mashed potatoes, or fries. These usually end up being $1.50 to $2.50.

Bisteck a la plancha: A big, thin slab of meat. Always served with rice or french fries, or occasionally mashed potatoes. Surprisingly simple, it usually has a pretty good flavor. Bisteck apanado is the same thing with the meat having been fried with bread crumbs. And bisteck a lo pobre is the same yet again, but with a larger portion of rice or potatoes and a fried egg on top, sometimes including a small salad. Prices vary from $2.50 to $7.

Pollo a la plancha: A chicken filet with fries or rice on the side. As with the bisteck, it usually has a good flavor despite not looking like much. With both dishes, I always liked to smother it in ají or rocoto, both being hot sauces made from the pepper that they're named for. I can't handle spicy extremely well, but I keep trying. They're tears of joy... Pollo a la plancha itself is usually $2 to $3. If you want pollo a la milanesa, in which the chicken has been breaded and fried, you'll pay a couple dollars more.

Pollo al limón: This little discovery at a restaurant up the street from our hotel in Arequipa was a gratifying one. I could've included it in the above paragraph with the other chicken dishes, but it was so good that I thought it needed it's own recognition, despite being cooked in the same manner and served the same way. It's cooked in a lime sauce, and it is soooo rich... I love lime. I pay $6 for it at El Royal.

Ceviche: Speaking of lime, we have to talk about ceviche. I've also seen it spelled cebiche, seviche, and sebiche. (The reason behind this is because there is no phonetic difference between the /s/ and the /z/ and the 'c' followed by 'e' or 'i', nor between the /b/ and the /v/ in Spanish. Some, however, depending on which Spanish-speaking country you're in, may tell you that there really is a slight distinction in the pronunciation, but as a general statement, there is not. The 'y' and the 'll' have the same problem. Anyway, if you want to talk phonetics and pronunciation, I'd love to have a linguistic conversation with you another time. Back to szebviche.) Raw fish marinated in lime juice with cilantro. Oh, I do love lime and cilantro, and for that reason Mexican food will always hold a special place in my heart. Ceviche is good, but not too much. There is, of course, the risk of getting sick from the raw fish. Peruvians keep telling us that it is 'cooked' by the lime juice, but I just can't bring myself to believe them. Lime or lemon juice doesn't 'cook' other foods, they flavor them. For me, ceviche is good in small quantities, like an appetizer shared by a few people. And often, it is served as an appetizer.

Salteñas: Actually a Bolivian creation, a salteña is a fist-sized, hard-baked bread with vegetables and meat inside, usually beef. And usually, they're juicy. I've had some mediocre ones, as well as some really amazing ones at La Salteñita, a small shop in Arequipa.

Empanadas: A similar idea as the salteña, but more well-known, empanadas are also bread baked. Inside is usually meat with spices, but sometimes some vegetables as well. There are also cheese empanadas. I think most people know what an empanada is, actually. Nod your head in agreement. My favorite thing is that their name is literally "something inside bread." I bet the original name was "carne empanada" - "meat baked inside bread," which was later shortened to just "empanada." That, however, would be a personal assumption, based off of the feminine ending of the word empanada. How many times did I just say empanada? Say it that many times, fast.

Papas a la huancayina: Meaning "potatoes served in a style invented by women from Huancayo," they're boiled potatoes served with a yellow sauce made of mayonaise, ají sauce, crackers (smashed), and something else I can't recall. These are good, although not amazing. I just think they deserve mention because Chelsea and I made them a few weeks ago as part of a cultural assignment.

El menú: Also deserving mention not because it was my favorite, but because we ate them so often, is the menú. We actually got some strange stares from people before we figured out what the menú was, because we'd go into restaurants wanting to see their menu and calling it a 'menú'. While in nicer restaurants a 'menú' is a menu, it is more often called a 'carta.' Menú refers to the 'meal of the day.' And that doesn't mean a special, it means whatever is being cooked in mass quantity, and always included two courses; a caldo (soup) and a segundo, or main dish. The soup was usually a broth with rice or small pasta (fideos), potatoes and sometimes other veggies like a piece of corn, and a piece of meat, while the main course was a serving of chicken or beef cooked in some sort of sauce served with a portion of...you guessed it, rice or french fries. Or sometimes mashed potatoes. We have eaten dozens of menús, sometimes not so great and other times amazingly flavorful. Prices are always low, from $1 (careful with those ones) to $2.50 (that's an expensive menú). The price is so low because it is cooked in mass quantity, with enough servings for dozens of people for lunch or dinner.

Somewhere along the line of describing all these foods, I realize I've begun to sound like a tourist guidebook. Maybe that's due to the fact that I've been reading one quite a bit lately? Oh well. Hopefully you haven't given up reading yet. How 'bout some drinks!

Inca Kola: Mentioning Peru without mentioning drinking a lot of Inca Kola would be something akin to blasphemous, I suppose. It's as common here as Coca-cola in America. It's a highliter-yellow soft drink that reminds one of drinking bubble gum. In fact, I've heard friends back home call it the "bubble gum drink." I like the stuff, really. I'll try to bring some home for my family.

Chicha morada: Another drink that's as old as Peru, and another thing Chelsea and I made that night of cooking. It's not hard to make, you just boil chicha (purple corn) for half an hour, pour out the water, and then boil the corn again for a minute, and add the new water to the old. Then you add sugar and lime juice to taste. We also added apple skins and pineapple shell (skin?) to the pot we boiled water and chicha in. It's hard to describe the taste of chicha, since there is no purple corn in the States (at least, not to my knowledge). Chicha morada is pretty good, though not my favorite. I assume it is somewhat of an acquired taste, since some people are really enthralled with it. Possibly the same as horchata española and jamón serrano were for me in Spain.

Now for a few desserts and pastries.

Leche asada: This was one of the first pastries I bought, and I bought it in Pampas. I don't think I've had many since, but it was really quite good. It was a cup made of...pastry bread, or whatever you call that hard, sweet bread...with fried milk in the middle. It was the texture of a flan, or thereabouts.

Tarta de manzana: I told one of my fellow students that I had the best apple tart of my life after eating one from a bakery up the street from our hotel in Arequipa. I don't know why it was so good, it seemed really simple - flaky pastry bread baked with some apple mash in the middle.

Flan: I may have had the best flan of my life in a restaurant in Nazca. Maybe not, cause I had quite a few flans in Spain, but the one in Nazca was really scrumptious. It was an egg flan, but not too egg-y. Maybe it was a hybrid egg-vanilla flan.

Alfajores: My description just wouldn't be complete without mentioning these. They're cookies, I guess, or maybe a sandwich...two layers of what I'd call a shortbread with manjar (dulce de leche or caramel) in the middle, with coconut or powdered sugar (or both) stuck around the outside. They seem pretty classic around here, and we had some famous ones in the Valle de Tambo, the diameter of a softball, or even a little bigger. Others are the diameter of a baseball. They're all right, though I'm not in love.

This ended up being quite the blog post!

Sunday, July 27, 2008

Garbage cans

Well, I have just made a long-overdue update to my blog, finishing the posts about each week since we've been working for FONDESURCO. I figured it would be a good time to do so, since we're about to finish up our internship this coming week! At the moment, though, they still lack pictures.

I also wanted to note down an observation I've made here in Peru, one that has been somewhat exasperating to me...there are almost never any garbage cans available! I make this observation that there are rarely garbage cans in the streets or even in the town squares, and also that in the many hotels in which we have stayed (the number must be around 20 by now), I can only remember one having a garbage can in the room. There's always a garbage can in the bathroom, (because that's where you put your used toilet paper), but it's always rather small. And you don't want to fill that one with other garbage, disallowing the putting of your toilet paper in there. So my question is, WHERE ARE WE SUPPOSED TO PUT THE GARBAGE!? We always put it in a plastic grocery bag, but I still haven't figured out what other hotel guests do with theirs. Floor? Corner? Under the bed?

Other cultures are always an adventure!

Acarí and Nazca; the last leg of field work

On Monday of this past week, we boarded a bus to Acarí at 5:30 (not leaving till 6), a small town which took us 10 hours to get to. So I spent the first part of Monday driving down to the bus station to pay for our tickets before the reservation ran out of time, and then I went with one of the girls of our group to the house of a member family here in Arequipa, where we helped (a little) make lunch and then ate. It was really quite good, we made mashed potatoes and a chicken...dish... It was a sauce made out of tomatoes, a little bit of onion, peas, and a few other things into which we put the chicken and then let it boil for 30 minutes. I'd love to say I figured out how we really did it, but I missed out on some details. It was, however, very good. We had an interesting conversation with the family, who actually lived in Salt Lake for about a decade.

After lunch we went back to the hotel, packed up our things, and went to the bus station again to head off. It got dark as we rode, and after watching a really strange karate movie about a Chinese guy that gets exiled to somewhere in Europe, I tried to fall asleep, which proved fairly difficult in that bus. A long while later, we arrived in Acarí at 4 am, found the hotel where we had a reservation, and crashed into bed. I got up at 10:45, and we met at the FONDESURCO office at 11, and went straight to work. I ended up only doing one survey that day, but the girls on their rounds found quite a few more. I worked on our report of the market study, (which is due this coming week), for about 11 hours that day. Don't anybody do the math for my activities that day! I and the 2 girls also went to a Catholic mass with our FONDESURCO fellow employees in the evening, the organization was recognized in the prayer that was given. I guess that particular church recognizes certain families or companies every so often, because we were one of 3 companies/organizations that were prayed for. The mass was interesting, and the priest also had a powerpoint lesson about one of the 10 commandments. Afterwards, FONDESURCO provided hot chocolate.

I found some orange corn this time.Hey.
Cotton fields...I was surprised.
Wednesday morning the girls finished the rest of the surveys while Cam and I worked on the report some more, and then we took off from Acarí at 10 am in a car to head to Nazca, about 1.5 hours north. It's an interesting, very touristy town. Probably about 30,000 people, we spent a few days here working on reports and also doing a few touristy things ourselves. We saw a movie about the Nazca lines, and then went to a metal tower from which you can see a few of the lines. The Nazca lines are mysterious lines and figures in the desert just northwest of the city, which were made by moving the dark rocks of this rocky desert to the side, exposing the white ground underneath. It is believed that they were made somewhere between 300 BC and 600 AD, and they are still existent, despite their simple and fragile nature, due to the extremely dry climate here, claimed to be one of the driest climates in the world. I recommend reading the Wikipedia article about the lines if you'd like to learn more. The lines are still considered a mystery today, because no one knows really who made them or why, nor how, since the lines can only really be seen from above, by airplane. So they are something of an enigma. We also visited some ruins outside the city, and some extremely old wells that access an underground water spring. On Saturday, Carly and Cam boarded a bus to Lima, because Carly is meeting up with her Dad, who is coming down to accompany his daughter for the last week when we visit Cuzco and Machu Picchu. Cam is actually heading home on July 31, so he's going to work in Lima till he flies out. Chelsea and I are still in Nazca, but we take an overnight bus tonight to head back to Arequipa, where we will finish up the work for FONDESURCO, coordinating with Cam and Carly over the internet.

Carly and Chelsea, waiting to order some food.Ruins near Nazca. Possibly Incan.
A really, really old well.
Yesterday, Chelsea and I went sandboarding. We took off at 7 am, riding a taxi for 30 minutes to the tallest sand dune in the world, and then followed our guide on a 2.5 hour hike up some mountains and then up the dune. It was pretty hot! It's kind of random, the dune, because there's only the one. But it is monstrous! So we hiked to the top, and then sandboarded down. It is the same idea as snowboarding, but is rather different to try to do in the sand. (So said Chelsea, she is a snowboarder while I have never tried it.) We had to scrape wax on the bottom of the boards every so often, and truthfully, it was really rather tiring to head down the mountain on a board, and it was a hard workout on the legs! It was an interesting experience. After we went as far down as you can go, we hiked off the dune and back out to the nearest part of the road for about an hour, where our taxi picked us back up. I don't know if I'd go again, but it was something to try!It was an eventful week. We only have a few more days of work for FONDESURCO, and then we'll be done. I still have some cultural assignments for school to do, and then it's tourism in Cuzco and Machu Picchu until the end! I'm a little in disbelief that there are only 2 weeks left. It has been a wonderful experience, and also a lot of hard work.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

New areas: Puquina and Omate

I can't really believe that another week has flown by. We worked on reports and such things on Monday, and then Tuesday we took a 3 hour bus ride to a town called Puquina. An interesting thing occurred when the bus stopped, a national policeman got on board, and took everyone's fruit. They don't allow anything but bananas and one other fruit (pineapple?) past that point because they don't have any fruit flies and they don't want fruit flies getting in. I was reminded of the stations you stop at when entering California by car, and having them take some of our fruit on past family vacations. My teammates were all confused and didn't understand it. One in particular was very sad about the loss of her orange.When we arrived in Puquina, it was absolutely gorgeous. The whole valley of mountainsides had been terraced for farming, and I went a little crazy taking pictures. They'll probably all look the same when I look at them later, but I was really fascinated. I couldn't stop thinking about how much work must've gone into them. The people said the terraces have been there for a long time, they didn't know how much time. They just farmed on them. We finished the client satisfaction survey there the next morning. The biggest hitch we ran into was that we split up Wed. morning to cover more ground, and when Cam Nelson and I got to the area we had planned, we found that neither of us had brought the list of names we were supposed to search for. Going back was out of the question, because it had taken nearly 1.5 hours to get there and if we went back, we'd lose the morning, when people were still home. So we just found random Fondesurco clients and interviewed them, hoping we might happen upon some of the ones who were on our list, and then substitute others if necessary. The most important thing, we believe, is to get a random sample of the clients in the community, and we tried to get that.

Oh, gorgeous terracing...
Some houses.
Bright and early.
Cute little girl that hid her face when I pulled out my camera.
Wednesday afternoon we boarded a bus for the 2 hour ride to Omate, another small town where there is a Fondesurco office. We arrived and started working that afternoon, finding a few of the clients on our list. I'll mention that our lists have people from several different towns on them. Puquina happened to be easier to find the clients, but Omate was something of the opposite. The clients that had been randomly selected were from at least 10 different towns, and the towns were more spread out than other areas that we'd worked in. Thursday morning we worked really hard to find them and went to many different towns. Cam and I were together again, and went to the furthest town, only to find the the only client we were looking for had ironically gone to Omate to make his Fondesurco payment in the office. It was a rough morning for us, but the girls had more success on their run, and we still were able to get all the surveys done that we needed.

Here are some guys making adobe bricks.A woman who we got directions from. She was nice, and gave me some of her citrus fruit. It wasn't an orange or a lemon...it was just...in between. Kind of had no taste.
Cool white volcanic ash deposits against a red rock background.
Friday morning we boarded a bus back to Arequipa, which was full when we set off, and which stopped about three times in the next hour or two to pick up more passengers. They filled the entire aisle, and it was crowded. Gotta love the smell of way too many human bodies packed together on a hot, dusty bus, right? The 5-hour bus ride was almost entirely on dirt roads. I think the most enjoyable moment (with a somewhat satiric tone) was when we stopped for a lunch break, but while waiting for people to start squeezing out of the bus, a boy threw up 2 times before his mother could get him off the bus. It didn't smell fantastic, but fortunately the bus staff cleaned it up before we got going again. Another moment, more amusing, was when we were just outside of Arequipa and the bus suddenly stopped and everyone standing in the aisles had to get off quickly. It is illegal to have people standing in the aisles, and there was a police roadblock a little bit further on the road. So we passed the checkpoint and picked up all the people again further down, after the road looped. I say it was amusing because I chuckled, but it is also very sad to me that for one, that was probably the only bus that the people could take to Arequipa and so it was their only choice to crowd on in such a manner, and for two, people are made to be so desperate to make enough money that they ignore laws and make the ride more uncomfortable for all involved. It was an interesting ride, and I'm not in a hurry to take another one.

Heading back: Tambo and Colca

(PICTURES FORTHCOMING)

After the week of working on the information for the market study, we headed back out to begin the next stage of our work for FONDESURCO, which is a client satisfaction survey. This is really similar to what we did for PRISMA, in that we are looking for a list of existing clients to survey. For PRISMA, it was a food security survey to know what kind of hunger they face, but this one with FONDESURCO is interviewing them to find out their level of satisfaction with the loans and services offered. It is rather easy to administer, but the trick is finding the people that we are looking for. We have a list of 38 people, and we need to find 19 of them. So far, the clients have been spread out in 5-8 different cities in each area, and coordinating travel can be tricky, hand in hand with the difficulty of actually finding the people when they are home.

We headed back out to the Valle de Tambo to begin the survey on Monday, July 7, and got to work immediately. (Cam Nelson wasn't with us, because the previous Friday he had gone to Cuzco to help 2 students out there settle in with some organizations to do internships for about a month. They were part of the group of students that had gone to Bolivia, but their internships had struggled and in the end fallen through, so those two had come to Cuzco to work with other organizations that Cam had contacted.) So we worked that day and got a few done. Tuesday morning we were woken up in our hotel rooms by a small earthquake at 4:10 am. I woke up and just thought that it was kind of neat and exciting. It lasted 15-20 seconds, at least to my recollection. Later, we learned that at the epicenter it measured more than 6 on the Richter scale, and that it even made news in the US. On Tuesday, we went back out and worked on finding people and giving them the survey. Cam arrived at some point and joined us. We worked in the afternoon, and by 7 pm or so had found all that we needed to find. I went back to the hotel to meet up with the other 3 students, and when they found that I had gotten the rest, we made a lightning decision to head out that night and try and catch the bus to Arequipa. It was late, but we did this because the next day was some sort of national strike, and there wasn't going to be any way to travel to Arequipa. It was kind of exciting, leaving on such an unexpected decision. So we were able to finish up all the surveys in two days.

Wednesday was spent in Arequipa, resting and working on the report of the market study for FONDESURCO.

Thursday morning we left in the truck once again, this time with David Álvarez, one of the analysts working in Colca. He had become our friend the first time we went there, and he was very helpful this second time around as well. All of the Colca staff were, really, and we were able to finish everything up by Friday afternoon and drive back to Arequipa. One interesting experience I had was going to Tuti in a small minivan bus (called a combi here), a small town an hour away, looking for a client on our list. Fortunately, I found the client almost immediately. On the way back, in the same combi, I chatted with a young boy doing a word search as part of his homework, and with some young girls who were also heading home from school. They all thought it was interesting to talk to a gringo. At one point of the hour-long ride, we passed a group white tourists, and I called out "Gringos!" because a lot of the Peruvians in the bus were looking at them out the window. They all laughed at my joke, (my pointing out the fact and terming them gringos, when I myself am a gringo), and I was pleased. Another funny story from our efforts here in Colca was when Carly, Chelsea, and I were sitting in the truck waiting for David to do some business of his own, and we saw an older Peruvian man leading his donkey off to work, but the donkey wasn't in a cooperative mood and kept stopping. Each time this happened, the man would desasperatedly yell "Burro!" We knew it must have been frustrating for him, but it was funny to hear him call out "burro" so many times.

So that was our first week of the client satisfaction survey work, and we're glad that we were able to get it done quickly in each area so far.

On Saturday the 12th of June, back in Arequipa, we did some work and also went and played soccer with the FONDESURCO staff, which was enjoyable. It was also refreshed in my mind how much better Latin Americans are at soccer than us silly gringos!

A week in Arequipa

We spent a week in Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru, compiling information, analyzing it, and writing reports. On Monday, June 30, we did some touring around Arequipa as a group, along with Kirk Dearden. We saw a few sights and learned about the 3 volcanoes that surround the valley. The most famous one is El Misti. None of the volcanoes are active.In the Plaza de Armas.
El Misti.
Llamas!
El Misti.
Chelsea, Carly, and Cam Nelson.
The rest of the week, like I said, was a lot of work on the information that we'd compiled with the previous 3 weeks of focus groups discussions. We also found out what information we still lacked and got an idea of how much work we had to do in order to write up the big report for FONDESURCO.

Highlights from this week? One night we went to dinner with Luís García, eating pizza. Not really a highlight, but noteworthy, I got sick this week and on Friday slept until 3 in the afternoon. It was...not the funnest! But I still found the energy that evening to go out to dinner with the girls, Luís, and his 2 daughters ages 10 and 12, if I remember right.

Anyway, a week of a lot of work but also with enjoyable moments. As a group, we all came to an agreement that Arequipa was a very beautiful city, and we enjoyed having it as something of a home that we returned to each weekend so far, as well as the entire past week here.

Colca

We headed up to Colca, a valley about 2.5 hours northeast of Arequipa, on Monday, June 23 in the evening. We rode in the same truck, but with a different employee named Modesto. He works in the Colca agency, which is located in Chivay. We stayed in Chivay most of the week, travelling to the cities each day where we carried out our focus groups. The 4 days that we worked here were very similar to the 4 that we worked in Tambo the previous week. On Tuesday we held our discussion in a large communal building of Chivay. Wednesday, we travelled 2 hours to a small city named Callalli, holding our discussion and then heading back to Chivay. On Thursday we drove to a town called Cabanaconde, two hours along a steep canyon road, with beautiful scenery on the valley hills. About 30 minutes before arriving at Cabanaconde, we stopped and took pictures at the Cañón del Colca, claimed to be the deepest canyon in the world. It certainly was deep and steep. We stayed that night in Cabanaconde, and then drove the next day to Huambo, our last city for doing focus groups.
Aren't we good looking?
Terraced farmland.
Looking down into the Cañón.
Pretty cool terraced farmland.
Highlights from Colca include two trips to two different hot springs. There are a lot of hot springs in the area because of the volcanic activity (obviously, I guess), and they were enjoyable. The first was on the evening of the day we got there, and the second trip was on Saturday morning, when Cam Nelson, Kirk Dearden, (a friend of ours, former BYU professor in charge of this very internship, and current Boston University professor doing research in Lima), and I all woke up at 4:30 am to head to the hot springs. It was early, but we got to see the stars and then watch the sky get brighter and brighter with the sunrise. Then, later that morning, we took another visit to the Cañón de Colca so that Kirk could see it. I don't know about the deepest canyon in the world, though... They say that from the top of the mountain next to it down to the bottom of the canyon is a 3,500 foot drop or so. They say it's twice as deep as the Grand Canyon.
A condor, definitely one of the symbols of the culture there.
Hey, corn!
After hiking partway down the canyon.
This week in Colca was interesting, and somewhat joyous for us in the sense of being able to finish up all the focus group discussions we had planned. I said in an earlier post that they were great tools, but required a lot of work. I stick with that! So it was a good experience to spend three weeks doing them, but it certainly was a lot of work carrying them out and then expanding our notes on them afterwards. We did 48 focus group discussions total.

After visiting the Cañón, we took an afternoon bus back to Arequipa and spent the night there with Kirk. On Sunday, June 29, we attended church, and in the evening watched a movie called "Something the Lord Made" (I think), about the first open heart surgeries to help "blue babies." It was also the story of the assistant of the doctor who became famous for the surgeries, who (the assistant) was black and not allowed to become a doctor himself. It took place in the 1950's, I believe. It was a very interesting movie.

Valle del Tambo

We arrived back from Juliaca on Monday, June 16, in the early afternoon. After spending a few hours in the FONDESURCO main office, we headed out at about 6 pm in a truck owned by FONDESURCO, driven by one of the credit analysts who works in the Valle de Tambo agency. I slept part of that ride without even meaning to fall asleep.

We arrived in Cocachacra, a small city in the Valle de Tambo where the FONDESURCO agency is located, around 8:30 pm, and stayed in this city all week as we did the work. Here in the Valle de Tambo, we had a bit of a changeup in how we did our work. The instructions on how we wanted our focus groups with the people set up got a little mixed up somewhere along the way, and the manner in which the employees in the Valle de Tambo office set it up was to have one large gathering each evening at 5 or 6 after the work day was over, to which 60-100 women showed up, and then each of us 4 students took a part of the group and did a discussion with them. They gathered the women by announcing the meeting earlier in the day with a loudspeaker strapped to the truck. This new way of working was tricky for us because we were used to having 2 of us working with 10-15 participants, but we were forced to work alone with a group of 20-30 women. It was a little out of hand! But we just did the best that we could with what we ended up with, and that is how we did the work for four evenings. The first evening we worked in a town called El Arenal, the second evening in Cocachacra (where the FONDESURCO agency is located), the third in Alto Ensenada, and the fourth in Punta de Bombón. Each evening after we students had finished our discussions, the FONDESURCO employees held a drawing, giving out several pots and a grand prize of a portable cooking stove. They usually had us draw the numbers in the drawing, because the people liked it. It was fun and interesting, although we students later agreed it was a little awkward to be the focus of a publicity stunt for FONDESURCO in that way. Each night after the discussions and drawings, the employees signed new clients up for loans.

Highlights from this week's visit to the Valle de Tambo include an experience that I had with Henderson, a Peruvian from Lima that was working in that area and staying in the same hotel. He'd already been there for several weeks, and had several more to go. He is an archeologist, and works for a firm in Lima. Their main work is getting hired by the government or by companies who are building things, and they identify archealogical sites that shouldn't be destroyed. There is a surprising amount of archealogical evidence here in Peru. Anyway, I met him the second night we were there, and we chatted for quite a long time. We talked about many things in Peru and archealogical sites of interest, and I asked him what I should visit when I go to Cuzco at the end of our trip. We also shared details about our work, as well as our families and personal lives, and I talked to him a little bit about the Church. A couple nights later, I had a longer talk with him about the Church, and talked about the Restoration and more of our beliefs. He was very friendly, and maybe in the future will have more interest. I would've given him a Book of Mormon, but didn't have one to give away at that moment.

Another highlight of Tambo was on Thursday, when we saw bats flying around in Alto Ensenada, and on Friday of that week Luís Urquizo, one of the FONDESURCO workers, took us around the valley in their truck, and showed us some sights. He also took us to the beach, where we took pictures and touched the water, but didn't go swimming. It's too cold! This was a neat place, I liked it here.

Here's some ají pepper.And here are some of the sights.
And the beach.
We headed back to Arequipa with Luís in the truck on Saturday morning, and spent the weekend there.